Ships, Shops, Art, and Architecture

In Scotland, two cities dominate: Glasgow, the industrial powerhouse; and Edinburgh, the seat of politics and literature. To visit the two is to read Scotland's history like a book. But to categorise one as muscular and the other as intellectual is to miss the point. The Glasgow of Charles Rennie Mackintosh is a million miles from the Edinburgh of Burke and Hare. Both cities have their moments of lofty idealism and vile degradation. Both have their tales of adventure and deceit. And both have some fine pubs in which the tales are at their most vivid.

In the ale trails of Edinburgh and Glasgow, there are ghosts and gamblers, brave hearts and bankers. Along the way, you'll hear stories of dogs and their masters, detectives and their creators. And every step of the way, there's a fine pint of cask ale to keep your feet firmly in the present.